Senin, 07 Januari 2013

Jeff's Things to do Around NOLA - Part VI - The Bywater

Bootys! (photo courtesy of Eater.com)
Welcome back to one of my favorite blog topics- my city guide to the great neighborhoods of New Orleans.  In previous blogs, we've seen Oak Street, Freret Street, Magazine Street, Frenchman Street, and Mid City. Today, we journey across town to check out New Orleans' most up-and-coming neighborhood, the Bywater.

The Bywater is a very unique place. It is eclectic, bohemian, hipster-y, diverse, blue collar, beautiful and funky. It's definitely not a typical tourist neighborhood, but in recent months has pretty quickly become one of the fastest-growing parts of town with all kinds of new restaurants and bars opening. If you are looking for a more off-the-beaten-path adventure, check out the Marigny. For even more off the beaten path, check out the Bywater. For a geographic sense, when heading downtown from Tulane along the river, you'll hit the French Quarter first, past that is the Marigny, then finally past that you'll hit the Bywater. If you were to continue on, you'd be in the 9th ward.

Once you're in the Bywater, here are my hot spots to check out:

Dr. Bobs- If you've ever been to New Orleans before, you've most definitely seen Dr. Bob's art. His stuff is all over the place- think bright colors, bottle caps and his infamous "Be Nice or Leave" slogan. Dr. Bob's warehouse is a collection of his various forms of art, all available for purchase. The good doctor is always there to strike up a conversation and help with your purchases. He's a hoot.

St. Claude Arts District- The Bywater is an artist's haven. All kinds of great galleries, shops, printmaking studios, pottery depots and theaters dot the area around the St. Claude Arts District. The SCAD describes itself as "one of the fastest growing underground arts scenes in the country" and is now home to over 30 venues. On the 2nd Saturday of each month, many of these galleries will open for group showings. You may recall I took my NOLA track there.

Vaughn's- This is one of those real classic New Orleans music halls. One of NOLA's most famous musicians, Kermit Ruffins, plays here every Thursday night. I love this place and you may too, but keep in mind it definitely lives up to it's name as a dive bar.

The Great War Memorial- Did you know New Orleans is home to the first WWI memorial to ever be constructed? Well we are. And it's in the Bywater.

Now, for where to eat. The Bywater has always had a few staple restaurants on it's list (see: Elizabeth's, The Joint, Bacchanal) but there are a few new ones that have joined the scene over the last year that are definitely worth checking out.

Booty's- This place is brand new and is going to be one of your new favorite hangout spots once you check it out. Co-founders Nick and Kevin describe their food as international tapas-style street food and the plates are small and satisfying. Booty's also serves up great creative cocktails and the space is beautiful- all kinds of reclaimed wood and Eidson bulbs and whatnot. Definitely check this place out if you are in the neighborhood.

Maurepas Foods- Maurepas is on pretty much everyone's "best new restaurants in NOLA" list and for good reason. I came here with my parents a few weeks ago and we loved it. It's hard to describe the food- it's definitely local but with a global flair too. It's also totally affordable.
The front porch at the Country Club

The Joint- Hands down my favorite BBQ restaurant in New Orleans. Killer pulled pork and amazing baked beans.

The Country Club- First off, a disclaimer about the Country Club. There are two parts to this place, one is the front restaurant where the food is amazing. I highly recommend their brunch- the food is great and you can sit outside on the beautiful front porch which has a distinctively Key West feel to it. Okay, so the second part of the Country Club is the back yard, which is a beautiful, lush, pool. A beautiful, lush, clothing-optional pool. You've been warned. (didn't you see above where I called the Bywater "funky?")

Elizabeth's- Also a perfect spot for a weekend brunch. Elizabeth's is most famous for their praline bacon. It's exactly what it sounds like- strips of bacon with crunchy pieces of praline on top. It's about as good as it gets on the bacon front.

MMMMM praline bacon!
Bacchanal- The pop up restaurant and food truck scene have emerged in great gusto here in NOLA. Bacchanal has a great little pop up restaurant around back in their courtyard, where live music is played most nights a week. If you are looking for something to do on a warm spring evening, this is the place to be. The music is always great, and the food is perfect to accompany it. New Orleans is one of those towns where you can eat a phenomenal glazed pork chop off a paper plate listening to some great jazz in a palm-laden secret courtyard, which is something I have done many times at this spot.

The courtyard at Bacchanal (photo courtesy of their web site)

Our NOLA track getting a lesson about the SCAD

The Great War Memorial 
So there you have it. Keep in mind when you visit the Bywater, it's not a typical tourist neighborhood. So go with a group- it's not unsafe by any means, it's just not as crowded. The neighborhood has a very laid back feel to it, so don't expect a lot of places to take reservations or cater to huge parties  And if you read this blog, don't tell TOO many of your friends about the Bywater. It's seriously local, and folks want to keep it that way.

Enjoy!


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